Last night, I experienced something new: an extraordinary meal from a singularly unexpected source. The world is often unkind to new talent, new creations. But there are times when a critic truly risks something, and that is in the discovery and defense of the new. But the bitter truth we critics must face, is that in the grand scheme of things, the average piece of junk is probably more meaningful than our criticism designating it so. We thrive on negative criticism, which is fun to write and to read. We risk very little, yet enjoy a position over those who offer up their work and their selves to our judgment. "In many ways, the work of a critic is easy.
Not everyone can become a great artist but a great artist can come from anywhere." In the past, I have made no secret of my disdain for Chef Gusteau's famous motto, "Anyone can cook." But I realize, only now do I truly understand what he meant. To say that both the meal and its maker have challenged my preconceptions about fine cooking is a gross understatement.
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